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On Tuesday, TIME's Edward Barnes traveled in the first U.N. aid convoy to reach the safe area of Gorazde, the last of the Muslim-held enclaves in eastern Bosnia: "As the last lorry slid under the hanging sheets that obscure snipers' targets at the last Serb barricde, another key element of the fragile cease-fire slipped into place. Unimpeded access to Gorazde had been a key Bosnian demand. The city itself is jury-rigged for survival. The few cars that still travel the roads are bullet-pocked diesels that are now tuned to run on the vegetable oil supplied by the U.N. In the Drina River, old truck wheels and 50-gallon barrels have been fashioned into paddle wheels that produce enough energy to run a local phone system. Every road is marked with the flower-like potholes that exploding artillery shells make. The few stores that still exist have nothing in them. Inside the city, it seems as if time has gone backward. Virtually every building is heavily damaged. Many are so shell-ridden that they resemble caves. Men do the work of horses, pulling carts of firewood through the street or carrying sacks on their backs. Asked why, one fellow dressed in camouflage shrugged and said, 'the horses died.' But a friend laughed and mocked his friend: 'Why don't you tell him you ate them?' his friend says and shakes his head."