Diary of the Edwards Marathon

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Evan Vucci / AP

Democratic presidential hopeful John Edwards speaks during the final stop of his 36-hour campaign tour around Iowa in West Des Moines, Wednesday, Jan. 2, 2008

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7:45pm. Des Moines
After we're subjected to a round on the bus of Edwards' campaign songs (John Cougar Mellencamp's "This Is Our Country," Bruce Springstein's "The Rising") to "pump us up" — as if we don't already hear these songs 10 times a day and will never be able to listen to them for enjoyment again — we visit the United Rubber Workers' East Des Moines headquarters. Edwards addresses a bunch of United Steel Workers from across the country who are spending their vacation volunteering for him. Also present are actresses Madeleine Stowe (The Last of the Mohicans) and Jean Smart (Samantha Who?).

10pm. Council Bluffs
We mysteriously pull into a gas station en route, the Edwards "Main Street Express" bus behind us. The press bus pulls away and we're told the campaign bus is having electrical difficulties. It's the last we'll see of it as Edwards, family and staff are forced into vans until another bus is procured. Is this an omen?

10:31pm
Edwards (almost) encounters his first and only heckler of the trip when we finally arrive at Council Bluffs. Earl Barthe says he's a "hero" who saved 13 people on a boat in his home town of New Orleans during Hurricane Katrina, only to be dropped in the middle of nowhere (Council Bluffs) and treated badly by the locals. Some of the locals present accuse Barthe of panhandling and mooching off one campaign after another until they realize he's a "troublemaker." Edwards supporters manage to keep Barthe away from the former Senator by chanting slogans over Barthe's protests.

12 Midnight. Atlantic
A very quaint farmhouse with a charming retriever named Brandy. Unfortunately, the press is escorted in one door, Edwards another. With no speaker system and three packed rooms between us and him, no one can hear a word of Edwards' brief speech. This is the first of three where Edwards will speak for under five minutes and decline to take questions — simply greeting voters for 15-20 minutes before leaving. Edwards emerges happily munching black-eyed peas and corn bread — traditional southern New Year's fare — made on the farmer's fantastic wood-burning oven.

2:15am. Creston
An amazing 40 people are waiting for the Edwards family in Creston. Elizabeth cracks a joke when a cell phone trill interrupts her introduction: "I can't believe somebody's getting a telephone call!" she gasps. "You need new friends!" The crowd is rewarded for their devotion — and trust me, they are all true believers — with a 2-minute-20-second speech from Edwards and no opportunity to ask questions. All in all Edwards spends under 25 minutes in the house shaking hands and greetings folks.

5:15am. Centerville
Another nano-second speech. Okay, this one lasted 1 minute 59 seconds. For the first time in the night his voice breaks from the strain of overuse, a typical symptom of candidate all-nighters. Also, Elizabeth skips this and the next event. Nice spread of pancakes, quiche and coffee cake, though.

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