COVER

What Makes Us Moral (Science)

Morality and empathy are writ deep in our genes. Alas, so are savagery and bloodlust. Science is now learning what makes us both noble and terrible--and perhaps what can make us better

ASIA

Pakistan's Valley of Extremism

Pakistan's bucolic Swat region used to be a symbol of tolerance and a magnet for tourists. Now it's the latest battleground in the war on terror

BUSINESS

China's Market Mood Swing

As China's soaring stocks stall, neophyte investors are feeling an unfamiliar and uncomfortable emotion. Greed, meet fear

BRIEFING

LETTERS

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

GLOBAL ADVISER

Stairway to Heaven (Diversions)

A tercentennial face-lift for London's fanciest retailer

The Spice of Hanoi (TIME Traveler)

Visit Vietnam's capital for a cosmopolitan mélange of Chinese temples, French colonial architecture and American consumerism

Family Fight Club (Global Advisor)

Next time you're in Rome, take a course in gladiatorial combat

Tubular Belles (Tech Watch)

Reinvented tube amps give your audio equipment the fuller, smoother sounds of the past