Rebel Hell

Inside the hilltop town where the Macedonian government is using artillery to forestall a war

When the shelling began one sunny afternoon last week in the tiny mountainside village of Sipkovica, Fekrige Muharemi figured that the best place to protect her family would be on the ground floor of her home, a recently built, two-story whitewashed house with thick concrete-block walls. She even invited two other families--15 children and 10 adults--to shelter with her. The illusion did not last long. The 36-year-old mother of two was pouring Turkish coffee in small china cups for her guests when the shell hit. It tore into the upstairs bedroom, blasting a 10-ft.-wide hole in the outer wall and shattering...

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