Life Without Beef

OFF THE MENU? The 'mad cow' scare is changing European cuisine. Boeuf bourguignon and ossobuco are out; Organic vegetables are in

Roberto Gloria has a sign touting Danish beef in the window of his Rome butcher shop, but nobody's buying. Red meat used to make up 60% of his business, he says, but since the first case of "mad cow" disease was discovered in Italy last month, "no one even asks for it. Shoppers are terrorized." Meanwhile, at a bustling organic meat and vegetable market on Paris' Boulevard Raspail, greengrocer Gérard Courvaisier is all smiles. "Business is up 30% here. People suddenly see us as a refuge. The mad cow crisis has been a real shot in the arm for organic...

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