Just as we were setting out on the family vacation, the reality of what I'd done began to hit me. Six months earlier, in a burst of frustration over a long winter in New Jersey, I'd booked a houseboat on a lake somewhere in the Arizona wilderness. My cousin had taken a similar vacation and raved about it. Up to then, my nautical experience consisted of rowing a 12-ft. boat in New York City's Central Park. Awaiting us in Arizona, though, was not a modest little craft. Nope, I'd be piloting a 60-ft., 15-ton double-decker leviathan, dubbed the Admiral by the...
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