On a clear evening in Florence, from a rear terrace of the 15th century Palazzo Frescobaldi, you can see the lighted campanile of Brunelleschi's late masterwork, the Santo Spirito Church, commissioned by a Frescobaldi in the mid-1400s. The church is almost 150 years younger than the family's 700-year-old business. Now the Frescobaldis, best known for their sumptuous Brunello di Montalcino wine, are coming out of the Middle Ages, forming international alliances that would impress even their arch rivals, the Medicis, and embarking on a marketing strategy for the 21st century.
Italy is one of the world's top wine producers, but...