All day long, the silver helicopter swooped and hovered over the waters around Heimaey, one of southern Iceland's volcanic Westman Islands. Three small boats tacked around the islands like erratic beetles, changing direction abruptly, doubling back on themselves, then spending long periods in one spot. For the uninitiated, it was hard to make out what was going on. A drug-smuggling bust? A search-and-rescue operation? The filming of the next James Bond movie? The reality was odder still: all these humans were scurrying around in an effort to take a killer whale for an ocean walk and find him some of his...
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