It is the late 1970s, and Sterling Lung, 26, the son of Chinese immigrants, believes he has struggled free from the clutches of his parents' old-fashioned expectations. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, where, he says, he was named "most likely to serve," Sterling is the chef at the Richfield Ladies' Club in green and tastefully affluent Connecticut. When one of the ladies praises his ponytail and guesses that he wears it in honor of his forebears back in China, Sterling muses, "My forebears? Think Beatles, Jerry Garcia."
In other words, David Wong Louie's The Barbarians Are Coming (Putnam;...
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