Whether served as raw sushi, grilled steak or in thin smoked slices, most of the salmon you eat these days is not the sleek sport fish that has been a favorite of anglers since Izaak Walton but rather a chunky, sluggish creature raised in captivity. Indeed, salmon caught in the wild accounts for less than half of all salmon sold in the U.S.
Now gene splicers have cooked up a replacement that sounds like a fish tale: a veritable superfish, one that can grow at least twice as fast, resist disease and outmate competitors. If approved, it could provide protein to...
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