Peace in the Middle East--or Brewskis at Mecklenburg's?

You're an Israeli or Syrian diplomat in Shepherdstown, W.Va., and you're bushed from a day of haggling over your historic treaty. Don't just curl up with room service. Get out and mingle! This may be a four-stop-sign town, but its 1,274 residents are a gumbo of army and CIA retirees, artists, naturists--and there's a thriving gay community too. Our guide for fun-loving peacemakers:

1 The Opera House: Art movies in Shepherdstown? You bet your Bergman, baby.

2 Betty's Restaurant: A breakfast institution. Betty works the grill; Elsa serves with a smile.

3 Bavarian Inn: The mayor's favorite hangout; serves Continental and...

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