Even if you didn't know how often high-end restaurant design is all about the search for glamorous novelties, you would figure it out as soon as you set foot in Megu, a new Japanese place in lower Manhattan where the "edomae nigiri sushi" goes for as much as $90 a person and where, in the center of the main dining room, you will find a 5-ft.-high ice sculpture of the Buddha that, no surprise, is replaced every day. Ice? Well, if you forget every banquet-hall buffet centerpiece you've ever seen, it's possible to think of ice as the last word in...
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