Living Through Better Cooking

A revolutionary who fought for spontaneity over correctness JULIA CHILD, 1912-2004

Though Julia Child was a cooking teacher, what she really taught was how to be alive. She lived until she was 91, mocking Atkins, Ornish and anyone else who believed that a slice of French bread or a pat of butter would kill you.

It was her intensity that made me love her long before I liked to cook. As so many cowardly loves do, mine started under the pretense of camp--that I was at least half mocking her, as Dan Aykroyd did on Saturday Night Live. The first time I saw her, the TV must have been on PBS...

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