Daring to Live Again

A respite from terrorism--and a big new wall--helps the city regain its swagger

You know you're getting close to Mahaneh Yehuda when you notice the strong scent of cardamom and see the ultra-Orthodox Israeli men, in their black Homburg hats and long beards, scurrying home with their bags of vegetables. Then you spy the green-bereted Border Police, eyeing the noisy flow of customers from behind a barrier. And the once cheery mural now defaced with graffiti reading DEATH TO ARABS.

The 117-year-old market is the heartbeat of Jerusalem. Until spring, three years of the intifadeh had brought business to a near crawl as it stoked fears that the 90,000 people who crowd the narrow...

Want the full story?

Subscribe Now


Get TIME the way you want it

  • One Week Digital Pass — $4.99
  • Monthly Pay-As-You-Go DIGITAL ACCESS$2.99
  • One Year ALL ACCESSJust $30!   Best Deal!
    Print Magazine + Digital Edition + Subscriber-only Content on TIME.com

Learn more about the benefits of being a TIME subscriber

If you are already a subscriber sign up — registration is free!