Nutritionist Marion Nestle stares in wonder at the latest bit of marketing wizardry to hit American sweetshops: sour green tamarind-flavored Shrek candies. She pops off the Shrek-shaped cap on a Crazy Hair confection and, after some initial befuddlement (of a kind no one under 12 would suffer), turns a dial on the bottom of the plastic tube. Sticky strands of chartreuse goo extrude through a nozzle and "grow" upward in apparent defiance of gravity. "Wow!" says Nestle, who has a deep appreciation for such ingenuity. She plunges in with a taste test. "Yech! So sour!" she complains. "And it sticks to...
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