Care for Syringe of Crab?

Even by the ambitious standards of American four-star dining, moto, the madcap Chicago experiment of chef Homaro Cantu, is a strange restaurant. Eating there is like dropping into an upscale restaurant with the Jetsons. Crab chowder consists of a tiny but menacing soft-shell crab perched atop a lump of chilled crabmeat and black caviar. On the side, four plastic syringes are stacked between slender silver barbell magnets. Each syringe is filled with a tasty soup: Peruvian potato, cream, carrot, garlic leek. Squeeze one into your mouth, crunch into the crab and move on to the next. This is but a single...

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