No one has had more to do with Spain's emergence as the pacesetter in international haute cuisine than Ferran Adria, a stocky, friendly and constantly moving impresario of gastronomic innovation. His restaurant, El Bulli, which is located up a winding road near the town of Rosas on Catalonia's Costa Brava, gets 1 million reservation requests a year, only about 8,000 of which he can honor. Adria puts no truck in old standbys. His constantly shifting degustation menu always aims to trump itself. A meal lasts for hours, alternating between sweet and savory, hot and cold, familiar and otherworldly: fried rabbit ears,...
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