Belgrade is not a nice place to visit. Not now. Even when the skies are clear, the city wakes to a deep haze. Last week, the most ferocious in five weeks of allied attacks, the smoke issued from a bombed-out police station, from army headquarters and from the interior ministry. A television tower outside of town was toppled. Underground pipes were destroyed, leaving parts of the Serbian capital without water. Residents cower through the night, unable to sleep where errant missiles slam into homes and not-so-errant ones hit residential neighborhoods surrounding official targets. No visitor can ignore the damage--or avoid hearing...
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