A Steak Through The Heart

I have never stopped bragging about my old Missouri hometown, but there have always been boosters in Kansas City who thought I bragged about the wrong things--barbecue and the cow on the top of the American Hereford Association headquarters, for instance, instead of Continental restaurants and similarly sophisticated cultural attractions. I liked the motto Kansas City had when I was a boy: "The Heart of America." The boosters liked the motto "More Boulevards Than Paris, More Fountains Than Rome."

In the 1970s some of the boosters hired a New York City public relations firm to persuade people that Kansas City was...

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