Old Iran... ...Vs. New

President Khatami's changes are finally noticeable, but the old-line mullahs are out to frustrate the reformist efforts of Ayatullah Gorbachev

When their soccer heroes scored a 2-1 triumph and thereby killed U.S. hopes in the World Cup, Iranians flooded into the streets and whooped and hooted until dawn. No "Death to America" this time. In fact, a few Cup-crazed fans raced their cars up and down Valiasr Street, Tehran's main drag, with the American flag fluttering out the window. One reveler even cried out, within earshot of the bearded morality police who kept a disapproving watch on the fun, "We love America!"

Playing in the international soccer championship, partying in the streets, putting old grudges to rest? Yes, outcast and uptight...

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