Remember a few years ago when you suddenly couldn't eat a tuna-fish sandwich without a pang of guilt--unless the tuna can bore a seal promising that no dolphins had inadvertently been harmed when the fish was caught? Soon there will be a new faux pas du jour: eating the endangered swordfish. If environmentalists have their way, most restaurants will take the delicacy off their menu, and those that don't will lose customers in the wake of a great swordfish boycott.
During 1998, proclaimed the International Year of the Ocean by the United Nations, conservation groups hope to make the swordfish a...