THE GOD IN EXILE

A VISIT WITH THE LEADER OF TIBET, THE SUBJECT OF A NEW MOVIE, BUT A STAR WITHOUT A STAGE

Windows are broken and paths half paved in the ramshackle little town of Dharamsala, India, where the Dalai Lama lives. The absolute spiritual and temporal ruler of Tibet still has to drive 10 hours over roads crazy with scooters and cows every time he needs to take a flight (from New Delhi, 300 miles to the south). And when you call his tiny office, you usually hear that "all circuits are busy"--or the five-digit number changed yesterday, or, amid a blizzard of static, you get cut off in mid-sentence, the only small consolation being that you are put on hold to...

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