FOOD: ODE TO JOY

A CLASSIC COOKBOOK GETS A TOTAL FACE-LIFT. PURISTS WORRY. SOME CONTRIBUTORS SIMMER. WILL THE POT BOIL OVER?

Blockbuster Flambe:

First, procure a copy of America's best-loved cookbook and shred it thoroughly. Add to the mix one cookbook scion, one volatile editor and a panel of food experts from across the country. Season with $5 million. Stir in large cups of envy, greed, backbiting and publishing gossip. Let simmer over high heat for three years, producing plenty of hurt feelings and howls of outrage from some of the food experts. Should serve 500,000 helpings and maybe a lot more if garnished with big, crisp publicity lettuce.

You won't find that recipe, with its characteristic boldface ingredients, in the brand-new...

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