THE AGE OF ELEGANCE

AGNES AND GLADYS AND PINK DRAPES AND DEEP PURPLE

These perfect fall days make me sad, and there have been so many of them lately in Minnesota. My cure for sadness is, first, to clean off my glasses and, second, to take a fast ride on a bicycle. If that doesn't work, I go to Murray's. The next step is to join the Men in Their 50s Coping with Melancholy group, and I've never had to do that.

Murray's is a restaurant in downtown Minneapolis that's been around longer than I have. In my childhood, there were the Big Three, Charlie's, Harry's and Murray's, and only Murray's survives. It is...