THE FISH CRISIS

THE OCEANS THAT ONCE SEEMED A BOTTOMLESS SOURCE OF HIGH-PROTEIN, LOW-FAT FOOD ARE RAPIDLY BEING DEPLETED

Thick swordfish steaks. Orange roughy fillets. Great mounds of red-fleshed tuna. Judging from the seafood sections of local supermarkets, there would seem to be plenty of fish left in the oceans. But this appearance of abundance is an illusion, says Sylvia Earle, former chief scientist for the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. Already, Earle fears, an international armada of fishing vessels is on the verge of exhausting a storehouse of protein so vast that it once appeared to be infinite. "It's a horrible thing to contemplate," shudders Earle. "What makes it even worse is that we know better. Yet here we...

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