For anyone who has ever dreamed of partying on the beach with a huge, all-the-fixin's clambake--complete with damp rocks, a recalcitrant fire and lobsters that trudge purposefully out from under the tarp--Sheila Lukins' U.S.A. Cookbook (Workman; $19.95) is the way to go. Better to read about her fresh peas than harvest your own bullets, and to serve her herbed bass than your limp concoction that drives the guests out after the lobsters.
The author is the doyenne of American home cooking, and the best parts of her book are little sideline essays about the byways of food, such as planking shad,...
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