We landed at a very fine airstrip at the town of Costermansville situated on Lake Kivu...The lake is one of the most beautiful that I have ever seen...It is certainly much more beautiful than Lago di Como and I am quite sure that it contains less dead bodies, of human beings at any rate. --Ernest Hemingway, 1954
The town at the edge of the lake--no longer called Costermansville, but Bukavu--was anything but idyllic last week. And the bodies were piling up. The streets of the Zairean provincial capital were patrolled by Tutsi rebels. Bukavu's Catholic Archbishop was ambushed and murdered. And...