CINEMA: A MOVIE TO DINE FOR

BIG NIGHT MAKES BABETTE'S FEAST LOOK LIKE PIZZA HUT

The Pilaggi Brothers, Primo and Secondo (Tony Shalhoub and Stanley Tucci), are simple souls. Italian immigrants, they believe that if they bring the best of their native land's cuisine to America, fortune will inevitably follow. They have, however, picked the wrong time--the 1950s--and the wrong place--the Jersey shore--for culinary proselytizing. Perhaps even the wrong street, for across from their modest establishment stands Pascal's, whose proprietor (Ian Holm) is busy noisily and prosperously ladling red sauce across his customers' tin palates and quietly scheming his rivals' ruin.

They are, in a way, easy marks. Primo, the chef, is a shy and brooding...

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