The first time workers at the Hathaway shirt plant in Waterville, Maine, met their boss, Linda Wachner, in August 1994, she introduced herself as "Miss Linda" and showed up wearing a gray sweat suit. Despite the informality, signs of Wachner's clout and wealth were evident, from the Gulfstream jet she arrived in to her heart-shaped, five-carat diamond ring to the coterie of executives who trailed in her wake. It was a retinue befitting the chairman and CEO of Warnaco Group, Inc., Hathaway's parent, primarily a manufacturer of intimate apparel, with sales last year of $916 million.
Wachner was in Waterville to...