WHEN A DETERMINED RAbija Osman Oprhal recently walked across a Sarajevo bridge from the ruined Serb-held neighborhood of Grbavica, a Bosnian soldier at a sandbagged checkpoint stared in astonishment at her identity documents. Hers is a Muslim name, and for more than three years Grbavica had been an "ethnically cleansed" stronghold of Serb extremism. "How is it that you have come from over there?" he asked. Rabija, 52, fixed the man with her gray-blue eyes. "I live there," she replied.
Until Rabija and a tiny handful of other Muslims appeared out of the rubble in recent weeks, few had thought it...
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