TIPTOEING PAST THE DANK AND murk of the Manhattan neighborhood called Hell's Kitchen, you walk into a huge tent where Pomp Duck and Circumstance is performed and enter a different world. Inside the bordello-red lobby area, tuxedoed giants and midgets say hello. In an alcove, T shirts and robes with a Matisse monogram are for sale. So are the pieces of Rosenthal china on which you will dine. A bartender pours you a glass of the house Chardonnay. Nine bucks.
It is a different world, all right: Vegas-style glam, with a heavy German accent. Indeed, the show--conceived by Berlin restaurateur Hans-Peter...
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