In a famous television commercial first aired six years ago, poultry tycoon Frank Perdue uses a competitor's frozen chicken to hammer a nail into a board. Perdue's point is simple: the law is absurd. Current rules permit poultry frozen hard as a bowling ball to be thawed at market and sold as "fresh" to an unsuspecting public. From the producer's perspective, the rationale for this fraud is easily understood. Freezing increases shelf life, and chickens labeled "fresh" command as much as $2 a pound more than birds marketed as frozen. At current consumption levels, this rip-off costs Americans nearly $1 billion...

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