I CAME, I SAW, I SPOILED EVERYTHING

At 3 in the morning, a serpent of lights begins to coil up Mount Sinai--up the path Moses took, a sparkling procession of tourists' flashlights. As dawn arrives, you see less lovely effects--the litter of candy wrappers, soda cans and Kodachrome boxes people have discarded on the ascent.

In the highlands of Papua New Guinea, in a village near Goroka, the warriors, all but naked, smear their bodies with a pale mud and don surreal mud masks. Taking up clubs and spears and bows, they crouch and advance, ghostly, out of the Stone Age (which they inhabited until the day before...

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