For a lifelong love affair, it didn't start well. When the young designer, scrambling to finish a collection in 1954, was told that an actress named Hepburn was calling to see him, he assumed it was Katharine. The ingenue from Hollywood had wanted her costumes for Sabrina to be made by Paris' reigning couturier, Cristobal Balenciaga, but the great man turned her away. The rejected muse then turned to another, younger designer, and it was rare affection at first sight. Eventually she called him her greatest friend, almost like a psychiatrist. He referred to her as a sister. Audrey Hepburn and...

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