What's a Poor Patriot to Do?

Cubans are angrier at the system and Castro than ever before. So why aren't more of them plotting Fidel's overthrow?

It is late in Old Havana, and Calle Obispo is shrouded in darkness as Jorge, who fears giving his real name, walks down the narrow street. Once a fashionable shopping avenue, Obispo is now lined with decayed buildings. Jorge passes a tourist store, where three young Cubans are staring at a window display of souvenirs that would cost them the equivalent of several months' salary. At the corner, a young man whispers, "Pizza, pizza," hoping to attract customers to an illegal private restaurant. At 20 pesos, the price of a pie equals what Jorge earns in two days. Light spills out...