It was already 8:30 a.m. on election day, and the one-room, dirt-floor polling station in San Miguel de Ocosingo, deep in the rebel territory of Chiapas state, should have opened half an hour ago. But ballot boxes had not arrived. The door stayed closed, and the line of expectant voters outside grew longer. Was this another case of ballot hijacking by the ruling Institutional Revolutionary Party, the P.R.I.? Finally, Caralampio Amparo Perez, an election official, emerged waving one of his replacement boxes over his head. He had improvised with cookie cartons; each had a hole cut into the side and covered...
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