Food For Thought

TITLE: BRAINFOOD

AUTHOR: JEAN-MARIE BOURRE, M.D.

PUBLISHER: LITTLE, BROWN; 268 PAGES; $22.95

THE BOTTOM LINE: A French scientist enlivens a dense treatise on nutrition with some tasteful reflections on gastronomy.

It was, inevitably, a Frenchman who concocted the theory that you are what you eat. (More precisely, wrote the 19th century gastronome Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, "tell me what you eat, and I'll tell you what you are.") Not surprisingly, another Frenchman has come up with an intriguing corollary: the better you eat, the better you'll think.

One caveat. Despite its chewy theme, Brainfood is in many respects user- hostile. The author...

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