Cannibal Country

TITLE: THE HAPPY ISLES OF OCEANIA

AUTHOR: PAUL THEROUX

PUBLISHER: G.P. PUTNAM'S SONS; 528 PAGES; $24.95

THE BOTTOM LINE: Another excellent adventure by the great grump of travel writing.

It was a journey that began, at least symbolically, on a gloomy Sunday in Christchurch, New Zealand. Cooped up in a hotel room so dreary that he drank the contents of the mini-bar, Paul Theroux was continents away from his London home, newly separated from his wife, afraid that he might have cancer (not so, it turned out) and depressed by the prospect of war in the Persian Gulf. "Get me out...

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