The Party Is Over

But after 70 years of controlling everything from nurseries to nuclear weapons, can the communists be counted out?

At No. 4 Staraya Ploshchad, strollers stare in wonder at the blank windows and locked doors of the vast gray building that is the headquarters of the vanishing Soviet Communist Party. Laughter and cheers erupt as a 5-year-old boy, encouraged by his father, urinates on the wall. A graffitist has scrawled DOSHLI (We've come this far) -- the slogan of Soviet soldiers fighting to victory over Germany in World War II.

That building until last week was the mighty, monolithic power center of a party that had run the country for more than 70 years using a combination of ruthless terror...

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