As a reporter covering the gulf war in January, Lara Marlowe saw jet fighters launched from an allied air base. In Iraq last week, she saw the ! sites they bombed. "I visited the landing strips, bridges and government ministries, as well as the blunders: for example, a water purification plant and a medical dispensary," she says. With Iraqi censorship lifted early this month, Marlowe was free to travel throughout the country. She found striking scenes: women in black robes carrying groceries through miles of rubble, a rusting merchant navy docked next to palm groves. Some of her experiences bordered on...
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