Living: You Can Go Home Again

Across the U.S., black Americans are returning to the South

Rarely does history draw a complete and ironic circle in a single generation. In Marion, La., the result makes an odd spectacle. In this unpaved country of clay soil and bayous, deep in a wilderness of pines, stands the white brick ranch house of Joseph and Hazel Hampton, complete with gold- flecked ceilings, a built-in barbecue grill and the creamy smell of fresh carpet. The house might belong on the groomed set of Knots Landing, but it stands instead on the spot where Hazel Hampton once picked cotton, within sight of the sharecropper's cabin, now silvery from weather and wind, where...

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