Food: Chateau Bubba Grows Up

The Adventurous Oenophile is selecting wines to accompany a festive dinner. For aperitifs, the A.O. and his companion want a sparkling wine -- and what could be livelier than the 1986 Ste. Chapelle Blanc de Noir brut? With the appetizer, a glass of white wine would be appropriate: the A.O. selects a 1986 Anderson Valley Chardonnay. Since the diners have chosen meat entrees, the A.O. requests a bottle of Llano Estacado's 1986 Cellar Select Cabernet Sauvignon. And a non-vintage Johannisberg Riesling from Chaddsford Winery will set off dessert nicely. The sommelier takes the order with an approving smile.

This hypothetical (but...

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