In the musty chill of the Dordogne, 30 ft. below ground, giant bulls, painted in red and black, gallop across undulating walls. Nearby, a cavalcade of horses, ibex, tiny deer and cave lions dances along the curves of rough limestone. Are these soaring images sacred or profane? A large bespectacled woman closes her eyes and sighs in wonder. She imagines a time, perhaps 20,000 years ago, when rituals were performed in this same hidden cave in the flickering light of animal-fat lamps. Slowly, tears stream down her cheeks. "It's like a church," she whispers. "You feel you can understand the people...
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