Poised on the edge of war, this is a city moving in several directions at once, none of them encouraging, some of them infinitely sad, all of them frightening. The authorities have tried to give outsiders the appearance of business as usual. But there is no hiding the reality that, be there war soon or a few more months of hair-trigger peace, life for the Iraqi nation is changing irrevocably.
The countdown to a finale has begun, and almost everyone here seems to know it, hostages and hoteliers, the men in the souk, the women in black abayahs, % the few...
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