Tailgate parties before L.S.U. football games are an all-day affair in Baton Rouge. Vendors set up, even for a night game, during the morning. By noon the vans are rolling in from all over the state to raise their family marquees. The vans, trucks and station wagons are traveling statements. One has a horn that bugles "Glory, glory, hallelujah" as it enters the parking area. Some are equipped with public-address systems through which the owners issue cheers, personal manifestos and invitations to join them for a drink. On the platform atop one large van, Confederate flags flying from its railing, is...
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