Food: Let Them Drink Seltzer

The champagne of bottled water loses its sparkle

For those who believed in the verities of the '80s -- that greed is good, that one can never be too rich or too thin, and that abstinence and exercise will lead to eternal life -- the new decade spells trying times. Mike Tyson's crown has toppled, and the Trumps have split. Oat bran is no panacea; Drexel is bankrupt. "I suspect," says editor E. Graydon Carter, 40, co-founder of Spy magazine, "that when they find red suspenders cause back problems, that will be the final nail in the yuppie coffin."

For the faithful who spent their days selling bonds and...

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