Political arguments will pale beside the more enduring debates over which is New Orleans' best restaurant. Following is one Northerner's personal order of preference:
1. Galatoire's. The only legendary restaurant in the French Quarter that lives up to its billing. (Arnaud's, Brennan's and Antoine's, with their dreary, badly prepared food, need not apply, and Paul Prudhomme's newer legend, K-Paul's, is a hassle and uneven.) Galatoire's is a turn-of-the- century set piece with white woodwork, beveled mirrors and brass coat hooks. Waiters are crisply professional; they even chop ice from huge blocks so drinks stay cold and undiluted. The overwhelming attraction is...
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