His seasoned wit is matched only by his appetite for good food, but Calvin Trillin is a man whose passions have always transcended the purely gustatory. The author of such critically touted books as Third Helpings (1983) and If You Can't Say Something Nice (1987), the Kansas City-born humorist, novelist and columnist also has a knack for capturing the offbeat flavor of American life. Last month Trillin contributed a portrait of Atlanta as part of TIME's coverage of the Democratic National Convention. This week Trillin's supple pen is trained on New Orleans, where the Republicans have converged for their own presidential...
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