Food: The Year of Dining Dangerously

A nervous market, shaky trends, bizarre solutions

If there is a single word to characterize 1987 in the gourmet marketplace, it would be silliness. Mustard came in for a drubbing with a variety of novelty flavorings, and deodorized garlic is in the wings. Dieters still want to eat their cake without having it on their waistlines, and speaking of cake, Texas is exporting cheesecake to New York, the home of the original. Frightened by a shaky market (and perhaps having exhausted their ingenuity), restaurateurs began to think small, and the future of the epic theme eatery is much in doubt. A stronger trend in dining out is the...

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