In the hubbub and the amber light of a crowded night spot, Don Carlson moves smoothly through the crowd. He is shirtless and in stocking feet, and he weighs 330 lbs., not counting the tiny gold angel wings between his shoulder blades. ("You have to say how tall he is," his fiancee urgently advises, "or people will think he's this little round guy.") So, all right, he is built like an N.F.L. tackle, stands just shy of six feet tall, and is more graceful than any man in heart-shaped pasties and a 48-in. diaper has a right to be.
It is...
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